Great Ocean Road

Hopefully this post will publish in the right order!

From the bay ferry at Queenscliffe the temperature rose to the high 30°s as I travelled West for a change. Torquay and Anglesey passed without sight of any camping facilities. Although those two places are at least closer together than in the UK!

The Great Ocean road twisting and turning around the coastline. Rainforest on my right and rolling surf on my left as I travel west. 

At a point where riding became uncomfortable a few clouds rolled in and cooler weather made progress a little easier. And as the skies darkened a campsite in Lorne provided what I needed just when I needed it.

I'm still not sure how that happens, but it has been a regular feature of the whole journey. Maybe there is something to be said for cosmic ordering!

Lorne is a little seaside town with a couple of pleasant rivers meandering down to a long shallow beach with rolling waves and some sense of being there for a while.

One thing Australia lacks is any olde worlde charm. With the majority of buildings only a few years old you won't find cobbled streets leading to an historic harbour. But the rainforested coastline and easy pace of life is a pleasure to be enveloped in.

In other news.

I've made a few decisions about how the rest of the trip will unfold.

After a few investigations about shipping the bike to NewZealand, the cost simply isn't worth doing.  So I've decided to use some of the money saved to hire a camper van in NZ and fly myself home by continuing East to complete the circumnavigation of the planet.

Time and money are both at a premium and riding across the USA isn't feasible with what I've got. I'm not spent up, but it's not a bottomless pit and I don't want to arrive back in the UK on Friday and go back to work on Monday!

So that's for the future. . For now I have the great ocean road to ride towards Adelaide and that's just fine thanks.

Sunday. . It's cool. less than 20°C - A pleasant summer day, broken after lunch by persistent rain. The local cinema (est. 1937 and never modernised it seems!) is showing Star Wars episode VII. . Well nothing spoiling, but it's just a clichéd rehash of the original story. The sun is out by the time it's over. Time to move on tomorrow. Travel is the overriding necessity. Sitting still just a pause between stages of the journey.

The road twists and turns from the coast through rainforest with huge prehistoric style ferns and massive twisted trees. It is a sight to behold and one I try to fix in my mind, but like many others will be washed from memory as I progress.

The twelve apostles is an impressive coastline of eroding sandstone pillars, except there aren't twelve any more as nature takes its course. The advertising brands it as the worlds most dramatic coastline. Quite a statement! Half of the population of south east Asia seems to be drawn to the viewing hotspots that necessitates a jostling of position to get the photo in between the selfie sticks and posing for smartphone shots. Luckily I possess my own way of rising above the masses!

And a small hillside campsite overlooking a river provides a restful night not far from the pillars of sandstone and the sound of the ocean carries round the headland and up the river valley to lull me to sleep. 

The ride through picturesque Port Campbell and along the rest of the Ocean Road is uneventful apart from a brief stop at Port Fairy where a gentleman from Malaysia thrusts $10 into my hand and tells me to buy myself a good meal after taking photographs of my bike with his wife/daughter. . .not sure if he thinks I'm either poor or undernourished or both! 

The road eventually leads me past Portland and on to Cape Bridgewater that will be my destination for the Christmas weekend. 

Not a bad view to wake up to each morning! 

A stroll along the beach on Christmas day will be a pleasure! Although it will be a challenge in the chilled southern ocean to manage my ritual of swimming in every sea I have travelled along so far!. Australia's south coast is reminiscent of the UK's north east coast it seems with "bracing" winds and cold sea. 

East coast Capricorn one

I saw eternity the other night.Like a great ring of pure and endless light , All calm as it was bright , And round beneath it time in hours, days, years , Driven by the spheres , Like a vast shadow moved in the world And all her train were hurled .

– HENRY VAUGHAN , ‘ The World ’

After the tourist time in tropical north Queensland it was time to start my journey south. First back towards Cairns and on to Townsville which I bypassed on my way north.

An overnight stop, camping for free in a rest area gave me the opportunity to get a bit closer to the sounds of night time Australia. Before moving on to another camp site just north of the little town of Mackay. The night sky providing a vast natural umbrella of vivid stars to sleep beneath.

Having passed through Ayr travelling along the Bruce highway through to Mackay in this little reminiscence of Scotland, the road passes through a flatter section just inland from the Whitsunday islands at the southern tip of the great barrier reef.  Before reaching Rockhampton. Where it's time for a little motorcycle maintenance.

A kawasaki dealer in town sorts out the oil and filter change its desperately needed for a while. Changing them myself in Russia was relatively easy. . Disposing of used oil in the back carpark of a motel in Australia might be a bit more difficult.

not much to tell about Rockhampton. It is apparently the beef capital of Queensland. More interesting to me was that it sits on the tropic of capricorn. From here south the climate eases a little. 

Surprisingly it doesn't take long to feel the effects as the temperature 'plummets' to around 20°C 

By the time I reach the un-sunny sunshine coast I've worn my textile bike trousers for the first time since Russia.. A caravan camp site by the beach is ok, but not a particularly peaceful place to stop. But as a temporary stop it's acceptable. . . I'm within reach of Brisbane now which is where I meet up with Simon for the ride down to Melbourne. 

Civilisation, Jurassic coasts and GP heros

We are experiencing a few technical issues and apologise for any inconvenience"

Not only has reasonably fast Wifi been hard to come by, I'm struggling with the video editing software I've used all the way through, which for reasons known only to itself now won't recognise the video format I've been filming in. Finding a solution or replacement is not proving easy.

So for those watching the YouTube vids, they are quite a way behind now.

And to top it off the blogging app is playing up as well.

So... A bit of a catchup since the last post.
(this post is a bit heavy on the pictures)

Brisbane is a relatively small city. And leaving it was fairly easy. A steady days travel brought up to Byron bay. A lovely little seaside town with a hippy vibe. Surf on the beach and flying foxes over the campsite. A few folks that "dropped in and dropped out" man! 

The bike had been feeling a little odd and a bit of investigation showed up a knackered rear wheel bearing.  Luckily I had the right spares with me and it was easily repaired.

An overnight stop at Urunga was a cool place to stop and with perfect timing the heavens opened not long after pitching the tent. A walk along the coastal boardwalk was a perfect lookout point to spot wild kangaroo and marvel at the multi directional waves as they broached the sandbar that had brought about the demise of several ships when the area was heavily used as a trading port. 

The next days journey was through some wonderful coastal roads. . Forested lands meeting crystal azure waters. Wide lakes and wooded shores providing a cool ride through the heat of the day. With a vague plan to camp lake side towards the end of the day the weather played a part in the decision as a tropical storm moved in, forcing an overnight stop at a little hotel in small town Australia. . Almost expected the Sheriff to ride into town to stir up a posse to ride down the cattle rustlers. - A bit wild west! 

Down through the town of Newcastle, complete with its own (prettier version) of Wallsend and down the coast towards the beautiful Australian lake district. With cool air temperatures and shaded roads alongside crystal clear lakes it is a fabulous part of the world to ride through. Staying off the main highway as much as possible added to the distance between towns and destinations, but the scenery and sudden explosion of amazing views as you travel along is more than worth it. Each sublime view surpassing the last in a never ending competition for the most astounding vista.

Heading into Sydney the inevitable build up of urban traffic is magnified after the glorious space of the country roads. But the harbour bridge and opera house are a required photo opportunity even if the security man was less than happy with me riding right up through a pedestrian area to get them ! - never mind - I'm moving on - thanks! 

South of Sydney we forgo the opportunity to pass Bondi beach, but having seen "Surfers paradise" I don't feel like I missed much. 

Another coastal road diversion takes us towards Wollongong - the industrial home town of Wayne Gardner (former world motorcycle champion) - the highlight being the road into town along a coastal bridge, before finding a peaceful camp site at Killalea state park. The swarms of flies in the morning driving me to distraction as I packed the tent away was like some game show trial!

Another bike issue was causing more concern than it had done so far and despite adjusting and lubricating the chain before leaving, the safety of the ride was badly compromised by the state of the drive chain and I decided that I had pushed it as far as I dare. Stopping at a motorcycle shop on Nowra was well worth it as a new chain and drive sprockets were purchased and fitted for about the same price as buying them in the UK. The bike massively improved afterwards and my fear of being launched down the road with a locked rear wheel cast aside. 

With yet more amazing countryside to travel through the crystal clear azure waters of  lakes entrance burst into view as the road twisted and turned through the wooded hillsides. A town named Eden promised a lot but delivered little and just the other side, the wide open space of a beach side camp site provided a place to pitch up and have a camp fire.

Ridinf still further south brought us onto what is locally known as Wilsons prom. A drive along the peninsular leading to a camp site at Tidal River. A place that could easily be from the Jurassic period with a long sweeping beach and not surprisingly a tidal river!
The local wildlife, obviously used to human occupation were not put off by tents and camping activity. 

With wallabies and wombats getting close enough to undermine the tent overnight.

Phillip Island - the venue of the Australian motoGP and world superbike rounds and a place I've wanted to get to for a while was an interesting visit despite it not being a race weekend. Sadly a race school event meant getting into the circuit was not possible, but the visitor centre and a view of the circuit was enough.  

Sadly camping overnight at nearby Cowes was not as peaceful as the surrounding coastal landscapes. 

Cairns... More than a pile of stones.

Bit of a delay posting this one - not the best wifi available in places.

After pushing on through the heat of the Barkly Highway, the temperature got more temperate the closer I go to the coast. Until just north of Townsville the world turned green! The road winding it's way through banana and sugar cane plantations. Rivers with actual water and pleasant breezes carrying the scents of flora in full summer bloom. .

A  rest day in Cairns after a long ride, before I make the hour long trip through the countryside up to Port Douglas.

Bats in the belfry. 

Well flying foxes in the fig trees. .  roosting during the day in the trees around cairns centre. 

Constant summer. 

With "winter" temperature at around 26 and summer at 34 I've found the perfect location for anyone suffering from the winter blues. Move to north Queensland it's a perfect environment.

The pelican brief. . 

There are some. (I can't be much briefer!)

The ride north from Cairns is along a lovely coast road. . With sweeping corners that reward you with stunning views of palm lined beaches and clear waters. Up to the picturesque town of Port Douglas..  Where the towns development hasn't impacted the natural beach front. Sea, sand and palm trees show that a town doesn't need to build concrete sea promenades and lose what nature created to provide a wonderful connection with the ocean. 

A day trip out to Kuranda national park saw a cable car ride over the incredible scenery of the north rainforest. With stunning views as the car travelled at tree canopy height through the trees with stop off points along the way. A truly incredible day out. 

There are not enough words to describe the cable car trip over the tropical rain forest. Eye poppingly, spectacularly stunning! Travelling just above the tree canopy past waterfalls, rivers and surrounded by the sights and sounds of a wonderfully breathtaking scenery

While I thought that excursion would be difficult to top and whilst I was in the mood for some tourist style trips I also booked a day out on the Great Barrier reef. A swift boat whisked the paying passengers out to three destinations where groups of first time and experienced scuba divers set off for the deeper parts of the reef, leaving us lesser mortals to explore with relative freedom wherever our swimming ability took us. Equipping myself with an underwater camera I managed to capture at least a slight impression of what was on view in this amazing underwater ecosystem.