Korean karma

Sat in a garden with the constant electric razor chirp of insects, next to a green pool teaming with leaping fish it is easy to find the inner peace that the Buddhist temple over the stone bridge will preach. It is a place of quiet contemplation and somewhere to consider a sense of achievement in the distance I have covered so far. 

 While a morning mist over the mountain backdrop adds to the scene. Intense Incense burns under paper lanterns watched over by golden idols where peace and tranquillity is expected. An air of holiness is inescapable as reverent devotees offer their prayers to the symbol of light.

Korea is a heady mix of modern and tradition. High technology, advanced electronics and an ancient history sit side by side. 

Korean culture is very different to my usual experience. The language is indecipherable to my european ears. Road signs unfathomable and yet it seems relaxed and easy to manage. I don't expect to see the road ahead torn back to its stony base layer and the supermarkets are stocked with everything I need. 

A lunch of rice and vegetables eases me through the afternoon and not having to cover vast distances relaxes my senses even more. 

Time to kick back and immerse myself in this exotic land.

The Eastern Dream

Sat dockside the Panama registered? Eastern Dream was less than I expected. Not the ocean going liner but more a coastal cruiser. Given the reported ferocity of typhoon Goni I was happy to sit it out in Vladivostok.

Once aboard the sense of modernity is immediate. Duty free shops café, bar and restaurant provide everything a passenger might need.

I share an eight berth cabin with one other passenger and after a comfortable night the morning dawns bright and clear, with calm seas and soon after the feint blue haze of distant land on the horizon.

Approaching a country by sea is something countless travellers have experienced over the centuries, but  is denied to passengers in a modern world of air travel.

From that glimmer of blue a landscape emerges and then buildings until the introduction is complete as the ship enters port.

Welcome to a whole new experience that is South Korea!

Storm hit Vladivostok.

Wednesday mornings news showed little hope of typhoon goni weakening its hold on the south China sea and the shipping agent confirmed there's would be no departure today. So as the rain increased to a steady downpour over Vladivostok I sorted out a room for the night and have an extra day in town.

My bike it appears is already aboard as it's gone from the customs dock along with a few other Korean registered bikes.. well at least one of us is on the ship. It's also one of us dry as the steady downpour turned into a torrent. Any sight of the sea disappeared in a curtain of rain as strong winds swept though the water front streets driving people to seek shelter.

A comfortable apartment is my own overnight shelter from the storm.

Thursday morning dawns calm but overcast. As I walk to the port there is blue sky on the horizon which I hope bodes well.

Waiting at the port I seem to have become something of a celebrity as the Korean and Japanese tourists marvel at my height. . Regular group photos ensue. I'm tall for Europe but hugely so in the far east!

Aboard the Eastern Dream everything has changed. Korea provides the currency, the traditions and the language. A small gathering around a stove cooks what appear to be small omelettes in a tiny pan. Although the ship has all modern conveniences some of the cabins are simple mats on the floor.

As we clear the islands around Vladivostok the skies clear of grey clouds and a relatively 

calm sea welcomes the eastern dream.

Tickets, Tariffs and Typhoons

With all the paperwork done, tickets purchased. Customs fees paid and bike delivered to the customs dock. The DBS line "Eastern Dream" sits tied to the dock waiting to be loaded and we will be ready to go... 

Except maybe not as Typhoon Gori sweeps through the south China sea it appears there may be a delay. Not that it's an issue for me. My visa is still valid and I have time on my side on Korea.

The Eastern dream looks like she may be more of a nightmare in heavy sea's. More a short voyage cruiser than an ocean going liner, so I'm more than happy to wait. 

The reported paperwork difficulties were cast aside by the efficient expertise of Yuri and Svetlana at Links Ltd - contact them before anyone else,including the ferry company if you need to ship out from Vladivostok. Making the whole process simple. Just a case of waiting for each document to be completed and paying the necessary when required. 

In the meantime I have had chance to swap the front tyre on the bike with a little help from my friends at jetski-club.ru who were more than happy to lend me a hand with workshop facilities right next door to my hotel room. Especially handy when the owner is a devoted "petrol head" with his 250 2-stroke Honda powered cart and various "ongoing" projects. 

So with everything prepared I just have to wait and see what nature gets up to over the next 24 hours which will determine if we depart on schedule. Time and tide (and typhoons) wait for no man! 

For those who haven't yet - check out the video on my YouTube channel and pictures on Flickr